Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
